Things seem calmer than when I was last here, a lessening in general tension that is difficult to describe. Perhaps it is because the country is definitely in recovery mode, rather emergency-response mode (at least until the next hurricane, earthquake, or election…and with the rainy season starting, another cholera outbreak is inevitable.) But Haitians take this “downtime” with the same willingness as they do the tough times. It is a cultural coping mechanism borne of centuries of chaos.
I bought some bananas from a street vendor this morning. I only wanted half of the bunch and she reluctantly sold them to me. I can’t throw down 15 bananas before they rot, and don’t know who can, but I was grateful for the bananas. In fact, I am eating one right now. She carried them for blocks in a basket on her head and they are warmed from the sun. Delicious!
I am staying at the ex-mansion of an ex-president. It seems as if every hotel in Pétionville was once the dwelling place of a disgraced dictator. Makes sense: Haiti has been independent 28 years less than the United States, but have had 70+ presidents, most of whom left office at the business end of a machete or gun. All the mansions here seem to look down into the guts of Port Au Prince, and in particular Cite Soleil near the shore. Do with that symbol what you will.
By the way, a friend of mine goes to Haiti regularly and is able to wander a bit more through the country than I am at liberty to do. Please take a look at posts from his latest visit.
More soon.
liveoakblues
Live Oak Blues 